2GIG GB1-345: Go!Control Programming


2GIG GB1-345: http://alrm.gd/2gig-gb1-345 2GIG Go!Control: http://alrm.gd/2gig-gocontrol Get Monitored: http://alrm.gd/get-monitored The 2GIG GB1-345 is an ...


[WHOOSH] [CLICK] Hi, DIY'ers, Sterling with Alarm Grid, here. And today, we're going to show you how to program a 2GIG GB1-345 wireless glass break detector. The GB1 is a great device to use to protect glass doors, such as sliding doors, or rooms with a lot of glass windows. Typically, to protect a window, you would use a contact to see if the window opens. But if you have a window that doesn't open-- big bay window, or a window that you always locked from the inside, how is an intruder going to get in? They're going to smash the glass and climb through. So therefore, if you went around your house and you put sensors on every single window thinking that you're fully protected with all your window entries, you have to realize that you're leaving yourself open to someone climbing through a broken window pane or glass sliding door. And the way to protect for that is to use motions interior, or to use glass breaks. Glass breaks literally listen for the frequency of broken glass. This is not one device per window. It's actually a room sensor that will hear any broken glass within a 15 foot radius of this detector. So if you have a room with a lot of windows, you may decide that, yes, I always lock them. And therefore, putting a sensor on the actual window is pointless. And I'm just going to install a glass break in the room, and know that the only way someone is going to get in is to smash the glass and climb through. And now, my 2 Big GB1 is protecting me. So it's a great type of detector and a really unique way of protecting your home, and something that we suggest everyone consider for their house or business. So, we're going to show you now how to program this 2GIG GB1 to your 2GIG Go!Control panel. Whenever programming on your Go!Control, first thing we do is Security, followed by Menu, and Toolbox. The programmer code by default is 1561. So as long as you haven't changed that, to do your zone programming, you would hit 1561. Now, we're on a Toolbox screen. We hit the right arrow twice to get to our Installer Toolbox option. And from the Installer Toolbox, we can do System Configuration to get to our zone programming. The first question in our 2GIG control panel programming options is select the RF sensor number. This Go!Control supports up to 48 wireless zones. And we don't have any zones programmed yet, because this is a new installation. We're going to go ahead and learn in our glass break on zone number 1. If we already have things programmed, we could advance down to 5, 6, and so on-- whichever zone we wanted to use to program. So, because we don't have any others, we're going to do zone number 1, and we're going to hit the down arrow to advance to the next section. Once we advance into zone 1, we're now in the sub-level. You can see Question 1 or Q1 now just says Q. And we're within the Q1 option for zone number 1. And they're asking for the RF sensor type. We have a list of all sensor types that can be used for a wireless sensor on our website. And basically, the sensor type will tell the system how to act with this sensor, and how this sensor will act with the system. With a glass break, you always-- well, nearly always-- want to use perimeter zone type. Whereas other types of sensors, you have a lot of different options depending on how you want the sensor to respond. With a glass break, pretty much, we always want perimeter. And what that will do is anytime the system is armed-- whether it's a way or stay mode, and this sensor is violated, it will be an instant alarm. We would never need a delay on a glass break, because why would you want to let the system hold for 30 seconds after the window was shattered before going off? And also, you wouldn't want to do like an interior follow or anything like that, because then, this would only be on in stay mode. So again, perimeter zone type is by far, the most common option for a glass break. Some people make this a 24 hour zone so that it's active even when the system is disarmed. But that is really just opening yourself up for false alarms when you're in the house. So again, we like perimeter zone type, or sensor type for a glass break. Lock it in by hitting the down arrow. And now, we're on the sensor 1 equipment code. This is a way to tell the 2GIG panel exactly what kind of device you're using. Because this system will work with Honeywell sensors, and 2GIG sensors, and GE sensors, we're actually telling the system that we're using a 2GIG glass break. So we hit the right arrow a few times until we see 2GIG glass break, and we hit the down arrow to lock it in. Now we're on our serial number enrollment screen. On every 2GIG sensor, we have a TX ID number on the device. And this TX ID is a seven digit number. It's 0, 9, 1, 3, 8, 7, 5 for this device. This is a unique seven digit number for each sensor. You will never see a duplicate number across two different sensors. This is the way to learn this sensor to this panel. So you can type the serial number in-- 0, 9, 1, 3, 8, 7, 5 right on the screen. We always normally recommend auto enrolling the device, because that will verify the sensor is good. On a door sensor, it's easy to activate a door sensor. You activate the sensor by moving the contact from the magnet-- same thing on a motion. You can wave your hand in front, see the LED when you first power it up. On a glass break, it's kind of hard to just break glass to get it to activate. But another option is to simply hit Shift and Learn to get to our auto enroll screen. You will never auto enroll a sensor unless you're seeing a screen that's looking like this, waiting for RF sensor transmission. And the way to activate the sensor transmission on a glass break is to simply tamper the device, which means turn it counter-clockwise and remove the head from the base. [BEEPING] You can see that we've now learned in 0, 9, 1, 3, 8, 7, 5. So we always like the auto enroll, because it shows the sensor's working. Obviously, that didn't show that the glass break portion works. But it least shows that the sensor has good batteries and that the tamper function works. And really, glass breaks are pretty foolproof. So the idea of it not working on broken glass would be rare. There are glass break testers that you could use if you really wanted to verify that the glass break portion works. But the important thing is, we know the sensor wirelessly communicated to this panel off of a tamper, which is what we wanted to see. We hit the down arrow, and we lock in our serial number. Now we're on the equipment page. Just like any other wireless device, 2GIG wants us to tell the system whether or not it's a brand new sensor, or if this was a takeover, or a system upgrade, or you moved into a house that already had sensors, you can tell the system whether it's a brand new sensor or an existing sensor. In our case, this was fresh out of the box. We're going to learn it in new. Loop number-- just like with nearly every single 2GIG device, all you do is leave it on loop number 1. Hit the down arrow, and now, we're on dial delay. If the glass break is activated, do you want the alarm to go to the central station immediately? Or do you want it to be delayed for whatever we have set as our panel's dial delay? And that would be 30, 45, 60 second delay that would-- in case you set a false alarm-- give you time to disarm the system, cancel the alarm from ever going to the central station. We like to encourage you to disable that delay. We want an alarm from your sensors to come to our central station immediately, and then our central station operators will use call verification by trying to contact you or family, and ask you if it's a real alarm. If it was a false alarm, you cancel it with your false alarm password. So we always like to have the electronics send the alarm immediately to the central station, if possible. We remove the dial delay. Now we can program our voice descriptor. On a 2GIG system, every device can be named something specific for the type of device, and where in the house the device lives. And instead of typing on a keypad, A, B, C, and typing out words, the way that you enroll a voice descriptor is you hit Enter. And now, you see Abort. You can do up to five words. You can see Abort now five times. And for each word, the way you would select the word other than Abort is to hit the arrows left or right to scroll through every available word. Now, there's a lot of words. So we wouldn't recommend just hitting the arrow to do that. In this case, what you're going to want to use is your voice descriptor page. We have this on our website. It's also included with our Quick Programming Guide when you purchase your 2GIG Go!Control panel. And this is our kitchen glass break. So the word "kitchen," you basically scroll down-- it's alphabetical. And kitchen is number 125. So if we were to have Abort board highlighted in type 125, we can see that it shows Kitchen. If we want to say Kitchen Glass Break, or if we wanted to say Kitchen Back Glass Break, or Kitchen Front Glass Break, we can hit Insert again. It gives us another available word. We only have one glass break in our kitchen, but we want to show that whoever is going to be viewing the screen, so they know exactly what's being set off. We're going to tell it that it's a glass break. So we're going to 104, which is the three digit identifier for the word, "glass break." And now, by the way, Glass Break, two words-- but in one section or one highlighted feature there is only counting for one of your five available words. Now that we have it showing kitchen glass break, we hit the down arrow, and we've locked in the word Kitchen Glass Break for our zone number 1. Now we have the option to report, or enable or disable reporting of this zone. Reporting refers to central station service. Do you want alarm activations from this device to actually send to the central station? We mentioned just previously about the dial delay. So that would be if you have it enabled, when will it go out? Will it go out right away, or delayed? This one says, will it go out at all? And of course, with a monitored system, you always want to be enabled. If you had all of your zones set up, you had 20 zones, and 19 of them were set with enabled reporting and you had one without that and you didn't realize that-- and that sensor went off-- the central station would have no idea. So this is a very critical programming aspect. You always want that to be enabled, if you're monitored. Now we have the option for supervision or supervised. And what supervision means is the system will regularly check this device for a good battery voltage and for good range to talk to the device. So with it enabled for supervision, if this battery drains, the panel will know about it and will alert you to change the batteries. If this device is out of range because something environmentally has changed, or it's been moved too far from the panel and you have it supervised, the panel can tell you, I no longer see zone number 1. And now you know you have to relocate your glass break, or you have to move furniture or electronics in the home so that you have a good transmission path from here to here. So we always recommend on a protected zone that you set it to be supervised. Now we hit the down arrow, and we have the option to chime. Now, chime is normally used with door contacts. When the door or the window opens, then it'll chime the panel and let you know that someone's opened a zone in your house. On a glass break, there's really no chiming, because the only thing that would happen with a chime is if you drop the glass and broke glass in the house when it's disarmed, it would actually give you a chime here at the panel. Obviously, if you broke glass, you know you did that. You don't need the panel to beep at you. So we would recommend just to go ahead and disable chimes on any GB1. We hit the down arrow to lock it in. And here we are on our summary of RF sensor 1. So this is the summary of everything we just answered for question number 1, zone number 1. We have type 03 perimeter, which is the recommended sensor type for a glass break. We have it showing that it is a 2GIG glass break. We have the serial number, which we've verified by auto-enrolling it. We have the equipment age showing that it's a brand new device, loop number 1, dial delay disabled. Send the alarm right away. Kitchen Glass Break is the descriptor of this zone 1. Reports is enabled. Yes, send the alarm to the central station. Supervision is enabled. Yes, tell the system about low batteries and range issues. And then, finally, chime is disabled. So we hit Skip to lock it all in. Yes, we're happy with our summary screen. Lock that zone in. Auto-advances to question number 2, which is asking about wired zones. In our case, we're done. We just wanted to show you how to program a GB1. So we're going to go ahead and hit End. And when you see End, you get a summary of system configuration so that if you made changes to your system configuration while you were in programming, you could also verify that those settings were good. In our case, again, we didn't change anything there. We're just going to hit Exit to lock it in. And if you've never done programming on a 2GIG, it may surprise you that exiting programming after making a change actually resets the system. The system will reboot, the screen goes dark. You'll hear in a second-- (SPEAKER VOICE) System disarmed. Ready to arm. --system disarmed, ready to arm. Now we know the panel is booting back up. A few more seconds, and we have our screen. We can show the device works by tampering it, which puts the system into a tamper violation. And when we close it back up, tamper is cleared. So now we know we've properly enrolled our 2GIG GB1-345 wireless glass break detector. We hope you have enjoyed this video, and we invite you to subscribe to our channel. If you have questions about how to program your GB1s, please let us know by emailing Support@AlarmGrid.com.