Lyric SIXGB: Program to Lyric

Lyric SIXGB: Program to Lyric


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Transcript

Hi, DIYers. Sterling, with Alarm Grid here. And today, we're going to show you how to program your SIXGB, which is the wireless glassbreak detector for the Lyric security system.

So, the Lyric is a great new system and it supports a whole new range of wireless sensors called SIX series sensors, very different than the 5800 series sensors. These sensors have a wider range, about 3 to 400 feet back to the panel. They're also fully encrypted and bi-directional, they can talk to and from the panel and there's no way that someone could jam or spoof the signals from these sensors. So a much more secure communications between the devices in your house that protect your house and your wireless Lyric security system. So while this system will be able to be programmed with the existing 5853 wireless 5800 series sensors, or glassbreak rather, the SIXGB is the best glassbreak to use with this Lyric system, and we're going to show you how to program it. It's very easy.

So, just like any Lyric sensor programming, when you first do your first installation of your Lyric, you want to program the furthest sensor away from the panel. And when you do that, the system is able to initiate the best communications through the house between the sensors, which are actually low band Wi-Fi devices on the 2.4 GHz range. And it will be able to evaluate the network and the environment and get the best signal path from the devices back to the system. So we've already done that. We've learned in our furthest sensor away first, and now we can comfortably learn everything else here, right at the panel, and then we can go test the devices at their intended location to be installed. Once we know they work in that location, we can install the sensor. So that's your general strategy when installing your Lyric system.

These sensors also can be programmed remotely by your alarm monitoring company. So if they're offering to do that for you, you're just having to supply the MAC address. They can type everything into the system and push it down to the panel. But if you're going to be installing it yourself, as a period of trial before you go live with the monitoring, it's certainly possible to learn everything into the panel and then your alarm provider can suck all that information up into the cloud and have access to your system to make further changes from there. So we're not going to show you that computer-based programming because as an end-user, you're never going to do that. We're going to show you the programming of learning this sensor in, right at the panel.

So to do it, very easy. We pop the cover. So it's twist on the back plate from the front, and we have this little pull-to-connect tab. You never want to pull this tab unless you're ready to program the sensor at that time. And we're not quite ready because we're on the home screen. So, first we do "Security," "Tools," and our installer code of 4112. 4112 is the default installer code, gets us into programming. If we hit "Program," now we can select "Zones."

And you can see on the zone screen, we have "New" on "1" and "2," that's for the hardwired zones. We're not doing any hardwired zones and most people using a Lyric, won't use hardwired zones, so we just ignore "1" and "2." If you click into "1" and hit "Edit," you'll see there's no serial number box, and that would be your tip or hint that "Hey, I messed up. I forgot that he told me to ignore 1 and 2". And starting with "3," you can program any of these zones to any of these SIX series sensors.

We've already learned in our front door, which is our farthest away sensor and so we're going to jump down to zone number "7." We actually have three doors that we're going to program: a front door, this slider door and a garage door. And therefore, we're going to go ahead and just use zone number "7" for our glassbreak because we're going to use a motion. So, we're going to use this template that's in there and just jump to the next available zone, which is "7." And when we hit edit, we're on this screen, ready to enroll the sensor.

However, one more step as always, to learn in the serial number, you actually have to click where it says "Serial Number." You have to tap on the screen to get into this level of programming, where it's ready to learn in the sensor. And because we've patiently waited to pull our tab, it's very easy to enroll the sensor at this point. You simply open it up and pull the tab out. By doing so, on the front, you can see this light flashes rapidly. And we give it about 20 seconds, and you can see right on the screen, it pulled in the MAC address from the device.

I guess this...oh, there it is. So, this MAC address on the device is on the back cover, and you can see it actually learned it in. This is a glassbreak. It listens for audio broken glass, but tapping the sensor can fault it sometimes, too. It actually just faulted in my hand just as I was describing that and basically, it's locked in its parameters. So, we can see the MAC address is displayed. You'll notice there's no loop number box on the SIX series sensors. They don't use loops at all, so every device is pretty much one action.

On the video for programming the SIX CT or the contact, the wireless door and window sensor, that's one device that offers similar functionality to a loop, and they call it service; it's a little different. But whenever it's a SIX series device that's learned in that's not a contact, you'll see this loop box is empty, and that's because there's no option for putting a loop. You don't have to think about that. You don't have to wonder what a loop is. Makes it a lot easier.

And now we can name it. We're only going to have one glassbreak in this installation. It's going to go and protect this door from being smashed. This is in the dining room/living room, so we're actually going to call it the "Dining Room." If we hit "D," we get the first word of the vocab for "D" in the custom library. If we then hit an "I," we can jump to the first "DI-" word, which happens to be dining. And we can go one further, clarifying that it's a dining room. And because our dining room and our living room are kind of shared in this house, we do the same thing: "L-I-V," "down arrow."

And now it when it has an alarm, it'll say "Dining Room, Living Room Glass Break." When we call the police that there's been a break-in on the glassbreak in the dining room/living room, when they come to evaluate the house, they have a better sense of where this break-in occurred, and have that better information, especially if it's a dangerous situation when they're arriving, that extra bit of information of where the sensor lives in the house is very critical.

You can see it auto-detected that it was a glassbreak, which is beautiful. We don't have to choose, we want to just leave it "Glass Break." And then the "Response Type," it went with the most commonly used response type for glassbreak, which is "Perimeter." And so, that just means it'll be armed in both "Away" and "Stay," and when there's an alarm, there's no delay. Basically, because this is only triggering on broken glass, there's should be no reason this triggers unless it's a false alarm and therefore, you should not need any delays, entry or exit.

You want it "Perimeter," you want it to sound the alarm immediately. And with "Alarm Port" set to "Yes," it'll actually transmit that alarm to the central station that's monitoring the system. If you didn't want those transmissions going out to the central station or you just wanted the loud noise in the house, you could select it to be "No," but our purposes, we want this system monitored, we're selecting "Yes."

"Chime" is disabled. Again, there's not really a "fault" for a glass break. Chime is great to protect doors or know that doors are opened. On a glassbreak, it'll never fault because it's just either an alarm, or not alarm. So you don't need to chime on a glassbreak. And then finally, "Supervision." We want it to be "Supervised." That just means we'll know if this is out of range or if it has battery issues. So it's actually sending periodic checking signals to the panel, letting the panel know about the health of the sensor, and that way, we know in advance if there's any issues with the sensor.

And if we hit the down arrow, you actually can choose the sensitivity through programming, which is something brand new to the SIXGB. On the 5853 sensor, it was DIP switch settings, internally in the sensor, that would tell it what sensitivity to use. On this system, it's actually selectable right here, by a toggle. We want "Maximum Sensitivity." So that we're going to put this in the room on the ceiling, and we're going to get the best range out to all the windows and the glass in the room, so we have the best protection possible.

If we had issues with false alarms while we're in the house doing various things that aren't broken glass, obviously, then you would try to drop it down maybe to "Medium." If you still have false alarms, you go to "Low." And you just want to make sure if you're going too low, that you're then testing your glassbreak with our FG-701 glassbreak tester, and then you would know for sure that broken glass here, would sound this alarm up on the ceiling. And we lock in these settings by hitting "Save," and we're back to the zone screen.

You can see, just like we did our front door, as soon as we have the SIX series sensor programmed, we're actually getting a visual indication of the battery health and the wireless signal strength health. So, if you' mix in 5800 series sensors with SIX series sensors...let's pretend this window is a 5800, that's why you're not seeing the battery or the RF indication or the supervised wireless signal strength that you do on the two SIX series sensors. So if you're ever wondering, "Hey, my '5' is programmed, but why isn't it showing me these icons?" Just remember, it's only going to show those icons on the SIX series devices.

And if we exit to the home screen, we have a learned-in glassbreak now, and we can try to fault it. You notice when I tap pretty hard on it, you get a "Fault 7 Dining Room," and it goes back to "Ready To Arm." So that's a quick and dirty way to just, without the tester, say, "Is this is working?" Obviously, it's not hearing broken glass, but tapping directly on the sensor like that is activating the fault, and you can see that indication. And then it goes away as soon as I stop tapping. So we know we programmed this in properly, and we're ready to go install our SIXGB wireless SIX glassbreak detector that we're going to use with our Honeywell Lyric system.

So we hope you've enjoyed this programming video on the SIXGB. If you have any questions on programming your Lyric glass break detector, please email support@alarmgrid.com. And make sure to subscribe to our channel as we'll be releasing a lot more videos, all based around this great new revolutionary Lyric Honeywell security system.


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