AMSECO SSX-52S: Wiring the Siren and Strobe to a Wireless Relay

AMSECO SSX-52S: Wiring the Siren and Strobe to a Wireless Relay

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Alarm Grid LYNX-EXT:

Sterling adds the AMSECO SSX-52S to the LYNX-EXT kit in this video. There are lots of choices for anyone wanting to add wired sirens to this kit. The AMSECO SSX-52S is one of the loudest, most popular of the choices that are available however. At 120 decibels and a bright, blinking strobe light, the AMSECO is hard to miss. This video demonstrates how to make sure that you connect it.


We remove the cover from the back. And on here we have some terminals, we have a power negative and positive. Okay? We have a strobe negative and positive. We also have a tamper. The tamper would go to a zone; you could use the hard wire zone of the control panel. Most people don't, especially in a residential application, don't bother with the tamper but that's what those terminals are. So we're gonna now make our connections from both the strobe and the siren back to our relay and our power supply. And these connections, very critical that you make them in the proper way, and we're gonna show you what that is now. Now we're gonna use just a short length here. Obviously, in a real world application these runs would be a little bit longer but for our purposes, just demonstrating this on the table, this will work just fine. Now you typically need two conductors or two connections from the siren, one going to here, one going to here. So one going to the power supply and one going to the relay. Because this siren has the built-in strobe, we're gonna use the four conductor wire, okay? And just double them up. One set of two wires for the strobe and one set of two wires for the siren. We're gonna strip back all eight of these to give us a little bit of exposed wire at the end of each. Your wire strippers will give you the notches for the gauge of wire that you're working with. Again, for us we're using 22 gauge, which is very typical alarm wire size. 18 gauge works as well. For convention, we're gonna use black and red as one set and green and white as another. Doesn't really matter, the colors, but it's always good to go off the convention so that the diagrams make a little more sense. So because on our siren, the siren's down here and our strobe is up here, obviously if you're only going to cut down that much you wouldn't be able to make these connections so we're gonna strip this insulator back quite a bit more so that we can use just one connection. All right? We have quite a bit more wire here to play with. Clean up our ends a little.

Now that we've stripped down our insulating sheath, we have our four conductors and we have a nice length of wire to work with, okay? We're gonna use red and black for our siren, green and white for our strobe. On the back of our siren, we have this nice little wire hole. So we're gonna feed all four conductors from the back to the front. That way when we put on our cover, all the wiring is inside the siren and we could mount to the wall, no problem. So we're gonna land our black wire. We unscrew the screws, there's a little metal clamp, and then screw it down tight. Our negative power: twist the end so that the stranded wire doesn't fray as you insert it. Open up the positive side, land the red wire. And then we go up to the top of our strobe. Flip it around; we have enough wire to land. If we hadn't stripped that down you could see how you'd run out of wire here. On our strobe, we have our negative. It's labeled negative. Probably can't see it in the video but when you're working with it you'll see it. This one says negative, this one says positive. We're gonna take our green to positive. Screw it down nice and tight. And we now have our connections for both our siren and our strobe.

Okay. So the strobe connections are here, but how does the strobe get connected to the strobe terminals? There is actually a little wire with some spade connectors and you have two little tabs coming off the top of the strobe so we can connect our positive and our negative. Red to positive, black to negative. Put our cover on. Okay? And you have your two screw holes here to mount to the wall. Now coming from the siren we have our four leads. Remember that we did positive on green, negative on white for our strobe, positive red and negative black for our siren. These connections we're gonna go positive to our DC output on our power supply. So we're gonna twist together the black and the green and we're gonna land it underneath the same terminal that's feeding our DC output to our relay module. So we're gonna have three connections. Going here, screw it down tight. That's our positive side. Now our negative is gonna go to our relay common terminal. And we have a little varying length here. I'm just gonna trim this black down a little bit. Re-strip the end. And we're gonna take our two negatives from the siren and the strobe, twist those together, and these are going to get landed to terminal number three on our relay, which is directly underneath the jumper wire connection that we did previously. So we open up the screw terminal, we insert both wires for the siren and the strobe, and we screw it down nice and tight. So obviously, much longer wire in real life that you'd be working with. But for our purposes, this demonstrates it. So we have our power supply, our relay, our siren. Just to summarize the connections: we have our DC wiring from our power supply going to the bottom two terminals on our relay. We have a jumper wire from the bottom terminal to number two at the top here. Okay? And then off our siren, we have our positive and negative for our siren and our strobe. There are positives going to DC output so that the auxiliary power supply is providing power to the siren. And we have our negatives going to our relay common so that the siren will know to kick on when the relay kicks on.