Honeywell 5808W3

Wireless Smoke Detector and Heat Detector

Honeywell 5808w3 wireless smoke detector and heat detector

Average rating:

(based upon 2 reviews)

The Honeywell 5808W3 is a wireless heat and smoke detector. The 5808W3 utilizes a photoelectric smoke chamber for smoke protection as wel...
List Price
$90.00
Our Price
$77.99
You Save
$12.01 (13%)

Description

The Honeywell 5808W3 is a wireless heat and smoke detector. The 5808W3 utilizes a photoelectric smoke chamber for smoke protection as well as a temperature sensor that can detect high temperatures (135° F) and low temperatures (41° F).

When the 5808W3 wireless heat and smoke detector is first powered up, the red and green LEDs will blink simultaneously once every (5) seconds for approximately (20) seconds. After the power-up sequence is over, the smoke detector's green LED will blink once every (10) seconds to indicate normal functionality. If the detector needs to be cleaned or replaced, the red LED will blink once every (5) seconds. When an alarm is triggered by the presence of smoke, the red LED blinks once per second. When an alarm is triggered by a thermal condition (greater than 135° F temperature) the red LED blinks every (4) seconds. If a freeze condition is detected (less than 41° F), the red LED will blink once every (10) seconds. Finally, if a low battery condition is detected, the red LED blinks once every (45) seconds until you are able to replace the battery.

The Honeywell 5808W3 has a built-in sounder (85 dBa @ 10') that will be triggered by a smoke or thermal alarm. The built-in sounder and the security system's siren will both use temporal pulse sounding to indicate a smoke or fire emergency. You will be able to differentiate between a burglary alarm and a fire alarm because the fire alarm will pulse 3 times then pause while the burglar alarm will be a more steady siren. Smoke and heat detection will be turned on by default once you program the 5808W3 to your wireless security system. If you want to use the optional low temperature detection, you must program a separate wireless zone using loop 3.

You can use the test button located on the smoke detector head next to the red and green LEDs, to test the 5808W3. If you press and hold the test switch for (5) seconds an alarm will be sent to the security system. The test switch can also be used to silence the piezoelectric horn for (5) minutes during an alarm condition.

Brand:

Reviews
Feel better with this connected via Total Connect
Submitted on 01/06/2013

While I haven't and hope to never actually have this go off, just the fact that this smoke/heat detector integrates into the alarm system and can generate an alarm and alerts via Total Connect in the event it did happen brings me a little peace of mind.

In addition to the smoke/heat detector this sensor also has a freeze detector as well that could alert us if the temperature gets too cold, and help prevent freezing pipes or anything else that goes along with extreme cold here in the Midwest during the winter months. Setup is quick and easy and you just need to program each of these features (fire/smoke, maintenance (batteries), and freeze warning)in as separate zones.

great fire alarms
Submitted on 10/17/2012

my husband put in a security system and i made him add these fire alarms too. now i kno that if our house catches fire well b safe.

The process you describe is for adding a wireless key fob directly to the 6150RF keypad, not for programming a new wireless sensor to your alarm system. Also, you can't use a Fixed English 6150RF keypad for programming a new zone as you need to use an alphanumeric keypad (such as the 6160). Do you know if you have an alphanumeric keypad connected to your system now? Also, is your system monitored currently?
I had to replace my key pad on my Honeywell security system, it's a Honeywell ADEMCO 6150RF. To get into a programming mode apparently I have to hit the #1 and #3 key buttons down at the same time to program a radio transmitter from a Honeywell smoke detector 5808W3. Once the key pad is flashing dE then I add the the wireless number. Which I assume is the smoke detector. It looks like somewhere between 1 and 8. I can find no such number on the smoke detector.
Also, if your existing smokes are high voltage you may be required to keep this type of detector. You can upgrade them to newer ones. There is a neat device called the FF345 (https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/encore-ff345 ) that you may want to check out. It will integrate your interconnected smokes with your alarm system. It does require a wireless receiver just like the 5808W3 that you are looking at here. Then add some 5808W3's as a redundant set of smokes.
That ADT Pulse gateway is connected to an actual alarm control panel. Do you know what model number the panel is? The model number is usually preinted on a white sticker on a black PROM chip in the middle of the green circuit board. It should start with 'WA'.
I am thinking replacing all of our 9 alarms in the house with these, simply because they are older, and it would be nicer to have a monitered fire alarm system. Do the interface with an ADT Pulse system, specifically the PGZNG1 ADT Pulse gateway?
A 5808W3 wouldn't integrate in with house powered, inter-connected smokes at all. However, you can use them as supplementary monitored smokes as they are photoelectric and most house powered smokes are ionization smoke detectors. Photoelectric smokes detect fire in a different way and therefore it may be good to have both types of detectors. Another option is to add one FF345 (https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/encore-ff345 ) next to any of the interconnected smokes as it's a wireless device that communicates with the panel and will send a fire alarm to the panel anytime it "hears" the noise the interconnected smokes make when they are in alarm mode.
Hi, if our existing smoke alarms are hardwired to 120V power and they are all connected to go off at the same time, 1: Can we install these wireless smoke/heat detectors in place of certain smoke detectors and connect to the 120V power? 2: Will these wireless smoke/heat detectors make the existing hardwired detectors go off in case of a fire/smoke/heat in addition to informing the surveillance company? I don't want to replace all smoke detectors with these wireless ones, just a few to save money. Thanks again!
The 5808W3 smokes use System Sensor date codes. You can see the convention online at http://www.systemsensor.ca/en/Prod_Library/Date_Code.html so if you have the 2121 showing at the bottom of the sticker inside the sensor, that would indicate a 2012 (or 2002 possibly) sensor made on December 1st. The 4 digit number you are looking for will be right below the "For Repair, Return To:" portion of the sticker.
I noticed a sticker on the alarm mount of your installation video ..... it said '2121' ..... the same number is printed on the labeling of the head as well ..... I have the same type of number labeling on my 5808's ..... is that a Honeywell date code? ..... how do I determine when my 5808W3 was manufactured? ..... thanks much ......
While we would never recommend disabling a tamper on a smoke detector, you actually can program a zone with zone type 23 No Alarm Response using that device's serial number and loop 4 (the tamper loop). This would "mask" the tamper alarm and cause it not to trigger a real system trouble.
Thanks for your ideas. It was definitely twisted shut and snapped in. I too considered the rings being splayed apart, but like I said. 2 of 2 units? They looked fine. If you just clear the alarm, it would go off again real soon. If you removed and re-engaged, it would be happy for awhile. The house is solid and the movement could only be a vibration, but I think the ring material (not the pins) is aluminum that can oxidize, combined with some micro-abrasion that oxidation dust might just lose cause an "open" for a micro second. My theory is that re-engaging it causes it to create a cleaner contact with the pins again. Bizarre I know, but my wife was about to kill me for awhile. So you can't administratively disable the tamper alarm in the panel?
It sounds like the smoke may not have been fully twisted shut? I think you took the right path of troubleshooting the issue. It sounds like you are rattling the unit from the floor above so the metal bracket that shorts the tamper loop may be out of position or loosened in some way. When the smoke is fully twisted shut, the metal ring should squeeze the two metal pins and short the tamper loop. You may want to simply remove the unit from the base and squeeze the ring together. I guess it is possible that it is bent in a way that it is preventing it from short out the tamper pins.
Our pleasure Ben!
I also concur that your can disarm from the panel. Unfortunately, I have experienced many false tamper alarms with this unit after it was installed for awhile. A new battery did not help. Aggravated, I bought another one. After awhile (couple months) it would start doing the same thing. I discovered if I just disarmed from the panel it would false again with in a day or even minutes. If I removed it from the ceiling and put it back it would not false for a weeks or months. Also, it whenever it falsed someone was walking on the floor above (100%). I could only conclude that the metal to metal tamper contact switch was vibrating enough to eventually create a minute amount of oxidized residue to cause it to detect an open and create a tamper alarm. I moved it to another location and so far so good. However, does anyone know if the tamper alarm can be disabled completely on this unit or in the panel?. I will be tempted to solder a jumper wire on the tamper switch (circuit) if it comes back again.
Thanks for your replies guys! This is a big selling point for me for these wireless detectors that I don't see clearly stated in the Honeywell brochures.
Hi Ben, If you have this connected to an alarm system, you can certainly cancel the alarm from the system's keypad. Of course, if the sensor has so much smoke in its chamber that it's still in alarm mode after you clear it, it may go off again. That would be a reason to use a heat detector ( https://www.alarmgrid.com/products/honeywell-5809 ) in the kitchen instead.
That is exactly correct. If you have a false alarm with this smoke you can simply step over to the panel and disarm the system twice. This will clear the false alarm, disable the audible siren and clear the faulted zone from the system.
It is difficult to disarm your typical run-of-the-mill smoke detector. If it is alarming due to a smoking oven or burned food, it means scrambling up a foot-ladder and pull the battery, then remember to replace it when the smoke has cleared. Is this situation improved at all with this or any supervised wireless smoke detector? If it is alarming and I want to quiet it, can I simply clear the alarm on the panel, or doesn't it work this way? Thanks!
* Based on a 10% APR with 12 months financing. APR's will vary between 10% - 30% based on credit score and various factors.