Honeywell VISTA-20P

Wired Alarm Control Panel

Honeywell VISTA-20P - Wired Alarm Control Panel

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(based upon 2 reviews)

The Honeywell ADEMCO VISTA 20P is one of Honeywell's most popular panels. If you are looking for a state-of-the art, wired security system capable of modern, sophisticated security and home automation, look no further than the VISTA 20P.
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Description

The Honeywell VISTA-20P is an alarm control panel and a member of the Honeywell VISTA Series of security systems. This workhorse of a panel has been around for a very long time, once being under known as the ADEMCO VISTA 20P. While the VISTA-20P is considered a residential alarm control panel, it is certainly equipped with enough features to be used in commercial settings as well. The VISTA-20P consists of a circuit board installed inside of a metal alarm cabinet. You can connect alarm keypads, hardwired alarm devices, wireless receivers, alarm sirens, etc. to the alarm control panel’s circuit board to customize your Honeywell home security system. Unlike the self-contained wireless alarm control panels such as the Honeywell LYNX Plus or Honeywell LYNX Touch, the VISTA-20P alarm control panel does need to be paired with at least (1) alarm keypad to control your home security system.

The Honeywell VISTA-20P alarm control panel supports up to (48) total zones of protection. There are (8) hardwired zones built into the alarm control panel itself. Using the zone doubling feature, you can expand those (8) zones up to a total of (15) zones. You can also add wired or wireless expansion modules to expand the total number of zones. When upgraded with a Honeywell 5881ENH unlimited zone wireless receiver, you can add up to (40) wireless zones using any of the Honeywell 5800 Series wireless devices for a total of (48) zones of protection. You can also use hardwired zone expanders, like the Honeywell 4129, if you would like to use up to (48) wired zones. In addition to the (48) possible zones, you can also program up to (16) wireless key fob buttons which do not take up any of the protection zones. Zone 1 on the VISTA-20P is setup as a fire protection zone and supports up to (16) two-wire smoke detectors but can also be reprogrammed for any other zone type as well. The Honeywell VISTA-20P is also partitionable and features (2) partitions which can protect (2) independent areas. There is also an optional 3rd partition called a common partition. You are able to arm either partition, or both, while leaving the common area disarmed so that you have access to the other partitions. The Honeywell VISTA-20P is controlled by wired alarm keypads and you can add up to (8) console keypads such as the Honeywell 6150, Honeywell 6150RF, or Honeywell 6160V. In addition to the (8) console keypads, you can also add up to (4) touchscreen keypads, including the Honeywell Tuxedo Touch or Honeywell Tuxedo Touch WIFI using the (4) AUI device addresses. We do not recommend using an AUI touchscreen keypad to program your Honeywell VISTA-20P. In fact, a fixed English console keypad such as the Honeywell 6148 is not recommended for alarm control panel programming either as you will not be able to navigate the *56 zone programming menus. Alarm Grid suggests at least one alphanumeric alarm keypad such as the Honeywell 6160 to be installed with your VISTA-20P for full programming access. The Honeywell 6160RF alarm keypad with unlimited zone wireless receiver is an ideal addition to a VISTA-20P alarm control panel as it upgrades the VISTA-20P with (40) available wireless zones and provides access to the advanced programming menus using a single device.

The Honeywell alarm control panel is powered by an included plug-in 120VAC transformer (Honeywell 1321) which must be wired to terminals 1 and 2 on the VISTA-20P alarm control panel’s terminal strip. Terminals 4 and 5 provide auxiliary power (up to a maximum of 12VDC, 600mA) for powering devices like keypads, motion detectors, glass break detectors, etc. Terminals 3 and 4 supply up to 12VDC, 2AMP alarm output for compatible sounders. When a burglar alarm is tripped, the VISTA-20P uses a steady output and when a fire alarm is tripped, a temporal pulse is used. A rechargeable sealed lead-acid type battery can also be used to provide backup power during power outages. You must use at least a 12VDC, 4AH backup battery which should provide up to (24) hours of backup power.

You can use terminals 21-24 to wire a traditional phone line to your Honeywell VISTA-20P if you want phone line alarm monitoring for your alarm control panel. As more and more security system owners are getting rid of their home telephones, the VISTA-20P is also compatible with the AlarmNet alternative alarm monitoring communicators. Add the Honeywell 7847i for internet alarm monitoring, the Honeywell GSMX or Honeywell iGSMV for dual path monitoring which uses both internet and cellular GSM communications.

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Reviews
Vista 20-P
Submitted on 09/25/2013

I'm a long time Vista user, since the Vista 5.
I was delighted to hear the Vista 20 can now interface to my Ericsson T-68i as i have already implemented a voice command system, eg, when i say " Office" or " Control Room" (sometimes i have to say these commands twice) the T-68i runs and internal batch file on the sub-processor and engages the software functions to work accordingly.
Do you think there will be a code release to interface the Vista 20 to my automated dog feeding setup? Essentially its a set of macros that run server-side and enable windows core services to allow machine code, that in turn enables virtual relays & I/O to lift a flap on the dog food container, once my pet comes within proximity range ( 15-30cm) of the embedded receiver on his bowl.

I look forward to Honeywells response. Thanks, Jason Cleary

DIY Install
Submitted on 09/12/2012

Did a DIY install of the Vista 20p. Coupled it with the Tuxedo touch. I don't think I've evr had more fun. I'm not a giant alarm system nerd, so I don' tknow what's out there as an alternative, but this was a blast to install, and I like the functionality of tthe Tuxedo Touch. It looks great, and it functions awesome.

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If you already have door and window contacts installed at the peripheral end - you can close them all and use continuity at the demarc by opening each door/window. If you do have contacts installed you can just land them on wired panel and program the zones as perimeter. Then just open and close the doors to see which zone number they are connected to.
Hi Frank, thanks for your response, unfortunately, by home is already build, and I am unable to pull the wires from the door frame etc. I also believe I have some wired to the smoke alarms. Basically I have a whole bunch of wires at demarc and no way of knowing which one goes where. Could I use the continuity tester and start opening doors? Or could I use a resistance meter and start opening doors until I find the right one? Just wondering if there was a tool professionals used to work around this issue. I think nowadays most people just say forget it and go with the wireless system, which I find redundant in this case since my house was prewired.
Get a toner (aka tone generator), ideally one with a continuity tester built into it. From the peripheral locations connect the toner on the pair of wires using the alligator clips (must be on bare copper so strip the ends) and put it in tone mode. Go back to the centralized location (aka demarc) where all the wires are home run to. Use the wand (listening device that will make noise when it is touching the proper pair) to identify which pair your toner is connected to. Then label your wire with the location where the toner is setup. To be sure this is the proper wire you can then strip the ends of that pair at the demarc and twist them together. Then go back to the toner and switch it to continuity mode (aka "cont"). If the LED is lit then you have continuity and the circuit is shorted. This means it is definitely that pair and the sound is not bleeding over from another pair in the wall. You will get a feel for the toner and when the sound is loud and clear enough to the proper pair. You can look up some youtube videos on toner identification to get a better idea of how this is accomplished. I recommend the Fluke Pro 3000 Tone and Probe kit.
Hi, What is the easiest way to figure out which wires are for which doors/smoke alarms in a prewired home? I have a Multimeter for resistance, but how will this help me with knowing the smoke alarms?
Sterling, thank you-
No, end of line would be at the end of the loop for the zone out in the field. You don't need a siren driver if you get a self contained siren like the 702. You would simply wire the siren back to the panel's bell output. The 702 draws up to 1.2A so you'd have 800mA left over for other sirens or strobes.
Hi Sterling,when you say end of the line, I take it you mean at the panel.... and ELK make a few different models, I just need a efficient unit (if available) in a small stainless box, the other siren driver goes in the large shop/garage in the truss section(702 honeywell wired for yelp mode). I don't know if the 2 amps will run 2 sirens and a thyristor strobe light.. do you ?
Resistors are used to supervise the wiring between a sensor and the panel. Each zone (can be one sensor or a group of sensors wired in series) should have a 2k resistor wired at the end of the line to supervise the wiring. What are you connecting to the Elk siren driver? The panel's bell output supports up to 2A max.
Good morning. after buying a vista 20(still in box) last august, its time to wire it in (to all the zones), 2 questions please- 1- why do you or when do you need to employ resistors ? 2 - the 702 siren driver is just one unit i provided for, i would like to add a ELK sire driver to the far end of the house under the eve..AND mount the yellow thyristor flashing strobe to the front eve...Im going to need an additional power source I believe, if so, any tips ? all the wire is run and hidden well now (new build)..thanks for any and all input-
You don't need a resistor as you can program zones (2-8) to be normally closed or normally open. However, it is recommended that you program the zone to be EOLR (end of line resistor) and that you wire a resistor in series at the sensor.
Morning all... Question regarding hardwiring door entry/exit sensor. If only one sensor is on the zone do I need an EOL resistor?
Yes you are perfectly right about that ....Thank you always learning
I'm glad to hear it's working now. Your other siren must have been over-drawing the bell output on the panel.
I changed the siren to a HONEYWELL SENSORS 719 ADEMCO 5"ELECT.SIREN,6-12VDC and it worked ..I think the older one maybe a higher amps
This is a classic symptom of too much current draw on the bell output. It could be due to the number of devices connected, and how much they draw,or it could be due to a battery issue, as the bell circuit on that panel gets most of the 2 Amps of available bell current from the system battery.
How many sirens do you have connected? Do you have the model number for the sirens?
sorry one keypad 2 sets photoelectric perimeter sensors
one keypad
How many devices do you have connected to the panel's ECP bus (terminals 4-7)?
I 've set up vista 20p systen programmed for 4 mins bell time out when alarm trips siren make one quick sound and stopped, but the keypad keep blaring for the 4 mins ...I took siren wire and make direct contact to battery and siren is working what may be problem..
Happy to help and glad to hear it wasn't a bigger panel issue.
Okay that makes total sense - that was the problem - some zones were faulted while programming was taking place and so were not immediately visible to the system afterwards. Thank you!
If zones are faulted while in programming, the system won't see those faults and it can take some time after exiting programming for the faults to show up. However, if you have all your zones closed and then exit programming, the faults should work as soon as you open a door or window. You can also power cycle the system after exiting programming if you don't want to wait for the zones faulted when in programming to show they are in fault.
I have a question on this Vista 20P control board with wireless 5883H module. Every time I exit the programming mode, it takes sometimes hours for the system to detect any faults with sensors and to start properly reporting on the status of each zone. What is its behavior after exiting the programming more (*56 menu)
Yes, you can fully power down without losing any system programming.
I need to move the control board into a new enclosure to clean up several other aesthetic issues. Will the unit retain its programming if I remove the primary and backup power? I'll need to remove and reconnect every wire from the board, and I would prefer that the power was completely removed.
You may have a problem with the internal charging circuit of the control panel. If that's true, you'll need a new 20P system.
My Honeywell Vista 20p back up battery keeps decharging and I have replaced it 3 times this year. I live in a rural area with power surges, and some short power failures. I asked a technician and he doesn't know why. Do you have any ideas? I get a BAT sign on my panel after less than 2 months. Pam
No the 7847i only uses the panel's ECP power and the back up battery for the panel.
does the 7847i come with a battery?
If you have a power outage, the battery kicks in. Once the battery runs the panel for awhile (with the power off), it drains the battery and eventually causes the low battery alert. As soon as power comes back on, the panel should recharge the battery so the alert goes away. Therefore, if you do have frequent power outages, it could be as simply as the panel is acting as expected. If you get low battery alerts when there aren't long power outages, there could be something wrong with the internal charging circuit of the panel or you could have a bad battery.
Okay, I don't need the connect 2. The battery back up with my vista 20P doesn't work very well I have to replace it about 3 times a year. We get a lot of power surges in our area, and I think it doesn't reconnect to the power after a failure. I can't think of another reason why it runs out so quickly. They're expensive, so I'm trying the UPS battery back up to see if it helps...any other ideas as to why this happens?
The alarm system control panel itself has a battery back up. You shouldn't need to have that plugged into a separate battery back up. Also, the alarm system keypads are powered by that control panel so it should just be a matter of putting the router and the 7847i on a battery back up. Total Connect 2.0 is a newer interface with more detailed level of text/emails alerts. You can get alerts with the specific user that armed or disarmed and the specific zone name/number that was activated as opposed to generic messages on TC1.0.
Ie I'm trying to get the router, the alarm box and the 7847i all plugged into the same UPS battery back up...
No,it's more: Running an alarm wire from the alarm box in the basement up to the second floor to plug in there. The router and 7847i (wired by cable from alarm box up) would be on the second floor. On the second floor I would have a UPS battery back up with the router and 7847i plugged in. If I can extend the alarm wire from the basement alarm box up to the second floor, then I could have just one UPS backup. But not sure if the alarm box can be plugged in 45 feet away from the box. The control panel is on the main floor, but I don't think it has anything to do with this. Alternatively I could move the router and the 7847i into the basement next to the alarm box but it's an unfinished basement and a bit damp. What is your opinion, Also, is there a difference between 7847i connect 1.0 and connect 2.0? Thanks Pam
Okay, just making sure. Yes, you can run a 4-conductor alarm wire from the panel to your router location so that you can mount the 7847i right by the router and connect it via Ethernet so that you only need one battery backup for the router as opposed to one for the router and then one for the wireless network device you'd plug into the 7847i to bridge the IP connection wirelessly. However, if you can fish that alarm wire, why not just fish an Ethernet cable so that you can install the 7847i at the panel?
Whoops. Yes
I'm not familiar with the 7641i part number. Is that a Honeywell unit? Did you perhaps mean to type 7847i?
I am adding an IP communicator (7641i) to my Vista 20 P so it can be monitorred by Interent since I've cut out my home phone line. I have bought a UPS battery back up in case of power surge/cuts, but my router is on the 2nd floor and the alarm box is in the basement. My question is: can I fish an alarm wire from the basement to the second floor ( about 45 feet) to plug it into the UPS battery back up, upstairs with the router? Rather than buy 2 UPS backups. Also is there an alternative to wireless monitorring instead of an IP communicator since that also involves wiring cable from the basement to the second floor? maybe TP-LINK TL-WPA4220KIT ADVANCED 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, AV500 Powerline Edition, Wi-Fi Clone Button, 2 LAN Ports?
You would need a wireless receiver (either standalone or integrated into an RF keypad) if you want to use Honeywell wireless sensors with the system.
Is the Vista-20P not wireless capable out of the box? Does it need an additional RF keypad or Wireless receiver to make it wireless capable? When I say wireless capable, I mean, just plug (and program) a wireless device (motion detector) and the device is ready for use... Thanks.
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